Serene hills and colonial charm of Landour beckons tourists

Perfect blend of peace, nostalgia, and natural beauty

Our short trip from Delhi to Landour turned into a relaxing break filled with hills, good food, and fresh mountain air. This quiet town near Mussoorie, with its old cottages, small cafés, and beautiful views of the Himalayas, was the perfect place to enjoy nature’s peace and calm.

A three-day staycation to Landour turned out to be a delightful journey through Uttarakhand’s tranquil hills, colonial echoes, and mountain breeze.

Even before we arrived at our destination, we were introduced to the ambience of cool mountain breeze and lush green valleys from the window of our train compartment itself. Travelling with four friends, our adventure began at Delhi’s Hazrat Nizamuddin Railway Station from where we boarded an overnight train that carried us roughly 250 km north to Dehradun and arriving early in the morning, the fresh air instantly lifted our spirits.

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Our accommodation was booked at Pondha, a peaceful locality about 22 km from Dehradun station. Surrounded by calm and greenery, it was the perfect spot for staying as it came with a cosy, homely vibe, I particularly liked a delicate pink-themed room that I guess was for females with bookshelves and warm bedding a space that felt both inviting and thoughtfully designed.

After breakfast, we rented scooters to explore the region freely. Our first ride took us to Rishikesh, around 50 km away, that took us about an hour and a half by bike. The route was scenic, lined with trees and dotted with glimpses of the Ganga valley. At Rishikesh, the Laxman Jhula and Ram Jhula bridges stood over the river, connecting both banks where spirituality and adventure coexist. The serene river, temple bells, and street aroma of chai created a lively yet soothing atmosphere.

That afternoon, we visited Robber’s Cave, or Gucchupani, located about 9 km from Dehradun city centre. This narrow gorge is carved between limestone cliffs, with a cold stream running through it. Wading barefoot through the chilled water, encircled by high rock walls, was a refreshingly peaceful experience.

The next morning, we embarked on our most memorable ride from Dehradun to Mussoorie, popularly known as Queen of the Hills and onward to Landour, a journey of about 37 km.

Landour was established by the British Army as a cantonment town on land leased from the local ruler and named after a Welsh village called Llanddowror. Walking around, one can still see the “British look” in many of the cottages and buildings here. The winding road was stunning, with green valleys, cloud-laced hills, and pleasant weather all along. Riding through this stretch was easily my favourite part of the trip the joy of the open road with cool mountain air is incomparable.

The difference between the two “twin-towns” Mussoorie and Landour is stark. Mussoorie is an established and commercialised hill station with many hotels and other tourism-related infrastructure. There are scores of local tour operators and cab vendors offering Mussoorie sightseeing and excursion trips around town. Landour, on the other hand, has just a handful of hotels and homestays so far, and a couple of cafes apart from the Char Dukan set.

In Landour, we began at Char Dukan, that is basically four shops that will offer you delicious treats like pancakes, pakoras or fritters, parathas, shakes, noodles and a host of other fast-food options. I was here at least once every day, sometimes more, and my favourite here was the amazing honey ginger lemon tea at Anil’s Cafe. I say this after having tried said beverage at four other places in Landour, bun-omelette here was also quite spectacular.

A notable tourist spot is St Paul’s Church, just a short walk away. Built in 1840, it stands quietly amidst towering deodar trees and its old architecture reflecting the town’s colonial past. The church is very pretty from the inside, with a wooden beamed ceiling and stained glass windows. The interior was cool and supremely peaceful.

An interesting fact about the church is this is where the parents of Jim Corbett, a famous British hunter-turned naturalist and conservationist, got married.

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From there, we rode about 3 km uphill to Lal Tibba, the highest point around Mussoorie, from where views of the Himalayan peaks, including Kedarnath and Badrinath, stretched across the horizon. It is a  place of unparalleled beauty and serenity. Lal Tibba offers breathtaking panoramic views of the snow-capped peaks, lush valleys, and the picturesque town of Mussoorie below.

Lal Tibba, which translates to “Red Hill,” owes its name to the vivid hues of rhododendron flowers that adorn its slopes during the blooming season. This scenic vantage point has been a cherished retreat for generations, offering respite from the hustle and bustle of city life and providing a sanctuary for those seeking solace in nature’s embrace.

Then we had a brief stop at Sisters Bazaar that is situated close by and is  named after the nuns who worked as nurses in the nearby British dormitories. The neighbourhood has numerous historic cottages and a few shops. This neighbourhood, contrary to the name “bazaar,” is more of a residential colony with historic houses and a few shops scattered throughout.

The place introduced us to small shops selling handmade jams, peanut butter, and woollen crafts, perfect souvenirs from this peaceful hill town.

Later, we explored Mussoorie’s Mall Road, known as the heart of Mussoorie, located about 4 km downhill from Landour. The Mall is famous for picturesque viewpoints providing amazing views of the Doon valley. Benches and lampposts are fixed at every viewpoint at the Mall for people to enjoy the serene sights of the valleys and mountains ahead. Colonial style houses serve as constant reminders of the British architecture and there are numerous souvenir shops here that are popular with visitors keen to buy locally-produced handicrafts or just some souvenirs.

On our final day, before heading back to Delhi, we spent a quiet morning at the Forest Research Institute (FRI), about 7 km from Dehradun railway station. FRI Dehradun is one of the country’s oldest research institutes dedicated to forest research. It is the most comprehensive forest-based training centre in India and attracts thousands of students each year to study and research every aspect of forests.

As part of a sprawling 50-acre campus, the central tower of the institution incorporates Greco-Roman and Colonial architecture, with a 2.5-hectare floor area. With the background of the Himalayas, this institute is worth visiting at least once.

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At one point, the Guinness Book of World Records recognised the structure as the world’s most significant brick building. A prime example of architecture in the colonial style can be seen in the main structure, which serves as both the office and the museum.

The institute’s majestic colonial architecture, vast halls and beautiful lawns created a sense of calm and grandeur. The neatly maintained gardens and the surrounding silence seemed to be enough to evaporate any trace of city anxiety.