The Matheran toy train winds through the hills, connecting the hill station with the railway network at Neral (Photos: Rashida Tinwala Afsar)
We often admire charming European towns where cars are nowhere to be seen, and cobbled lanes, walking paths and horse-drawn carriages replace traffic, making the whole place seem to move at a slower pace. But what if I told you we have a place just like that in India?
Welcome to Matheran. Just around 80 km from Mumbai, this small hill station is perched in the Sahyadris at around 800 metres above sea level. Yet, despite being so close to the Millennium City, it feels worlds away, with dense forests, red-earth trails and sweeping views of the valleys giving it a distinctly old-world character.
Ride the Matheran toy train
The absence of motor vehicles is perhaps Matheran’s most distinctive feature. Visitors arriving by road leave their vehicles at Aman Lodge, the gateway to Matheran’s toy train, beyond which the town is largely explored on foot or by horse. Even goods and supplies are transported using horses and handcarts, making the pace of life noticeably different from most popular hill destinations.
For those arriving by rail, the Matheran Hill Railway offers one of Maharashtra’s most distinctive mountain journeys. The narrow-gauge railway connects Neral with Matheran and was opened in 1907 after being built by Sir Adamjee Peerbhoy. The approximately 20-km route climbs through the forest with sharp curves, steep gradients and dramatic sections of mountain scenery. The shorter shuttle between Aman Lodge and Matheran takes around 18 minutes, with fares starting at around INR 45 per adult.
Walking trails, horse rides and dense forests offer a slower way to explore Matheran
Exploring Matheran’s viewpoints
Matheran’s forests are as much a part of its charm as the views themselves. The dense greenery is home to a variety of birds and wildlife, and as you walk through the forest, the trees occasionally open up to reveal sweeping views of the valleys. Panorama Point offers almost 360° vistas and is particularly beautiful at sunrise, while Louisa Point looks out towards Prabalgad, an historic fort from the times of Maratha King Shivaji, rising across the valley. Echo Point combines forest and valley views with its natural echo, while One Tree Hill and Porcupine Point offer their own distinctive landscapes. Charlotte Lake, surrounded by greenery, provides a quieter stop along the way.
Matheran’s forested hills, Charlotte Lake and valley views showcase the hill station’s natural landscape
Stay in a piece of Matheran’s history
Matheran’s heritage is not limited to its railway and colonial-era streets; some of its old homes have themselves become places to stay. Radha Heritage Cottage is one such property, a 125-year-old colonial-style bungalow originally built as the private residence of Pherozeshah Mehta, also known as the ‘Lion of Bombay’, a prominent politician and lawyer in the late-19th century, and a key figure in Mumbai’s civic history, including Municipal Commissioner of Bombay as Mumbai was then called.
Today, the heritage home sits on roughly an acre of lush green land, surrounded by thick forest.
Radha Heritage Cottage blends colonial-era architecture with the natural surroundings of Matheran
Located around a 20-minute walk from Matheran station, the cottage feels like a world in itself. When you step onto the property, the bustle of the town fades away, replaced by towering trees, bird calls and the quiet of the surrounding jungle. It is incredibly peaceful, making the property feel less like a conventional hotel and more like a heritage home tucked away in the forest.
A heritage room at Radha Cottage retains traditional design elements while offering modern comforts
The original character of the property is still visible in its architecture, with wooden fittings, timber-panelled doors, glazed windows and China mosaic flooring adding to its old-world charm. The property has 13 bedrooms, with accommodation ranging from Heritage Rooms and Rose Cottages to Superior Forest View Rooms with balconies and larger cottage-style options. The rooms retain the character of the heritage setting while offering modern comforts.
Home-style Maharashtrian dishes and local accompaniments
There is plenty to keep families occupied too, with an outdoor swimming pool and kids’ pool, a children’s play area, indoor games and outdoor activities.
Food is another highlight. The dining hall retains the property’s colonial character and serves home-style Maharashtrian and multi-cuisine fare, with local favourites such as Puran Poli alongside a wide variety of options. The hospitality is equally warm, adding to the feeling that you are staying in someone’s home.
Matheran does not give you a checklist of things to do. You walk, you wander, you stop for a view, you hear the rustle of leaves and suddenly realise you have lost track of time. Perhaps that is the real luxury of this little hill town.
