Wintry tales of Tughlaqabad Fort

Exploring Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq’s Forgotten City in South Delhi

Tughlaqabad Fort, a 700-year-old fort located in South Delhi, was an attempt by Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq, the founder of the Tughlaq dynasty, of the Delhi Sultanate, to protect his capital. Today, the fort is a monument favoured not just by historians, but also tourists and photographers.

Cast in an array of earthy and muted tones, the massive stone walls of Tughlaqabad Fort glow under the pale winter sun, their rough surfaces catching light and shadow with every passing hour. 

On a mid-December afternoon, as visitors climb the steep approach road, the fort reveals itself slowly, looming and silent. Crumbling ramparts stretch across the rugged Aravali hills, while thorny shrubs and dry grass cling stubbornly to the rocky terrain. Above the walls, monkeys leap between bastions, the only movement recognisable in the stillness of a structure that has stood for over seven centuries.

Located along the Badarpur–Mehrauli border in South Delhi, Tughlaqabad Fort stands as a monumental reminder of the city’s medieval past. Rising like a silent guardian amid some of Delhi’s oldest urban villages historically home to Gujjars and Sikh refugees, the fort exists today as both a haunting silhouette and a powerful historical landmark.

Commissioned in 1321 by Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq, the founder of the Tughlaq dynasty, the fort was envisioned as a formidable defensive capital of the Delhi Sultanate. Built on elevated ground, it commands sweeping views of its surroundings and was strategically designed to repel invaders during a time when Delhi faced repeated Mongol threats. Known for his military focus and iron resolve, Tughlaq mobilised workers from across the Sultanate to construct the fort at an unprecedented pace.

 

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At the entrance, a weathered and rusted sign greets visitors, pointing them toward the three primary divisions of the fort: the palace complex, the citadel, and the residential city. Once inside, the palace complex lies to the left, partially hidden behind thorn bushes and uneven terrain, making access a challenge. The ruins of royal structures still stand, eroded yet dignified, whispering stories of a court long gone.

A short walk towards South East leads to the citadel, marked by towering bastions from where archers once stood ready to fire down upon advancing enemies. Beneath the fort runs an underground passageway with several chambers, linking different sections, including the palace complex, adding layers of intrigue and mystery to the site. The dark, narrow spaces evoke both curiosity and unease, offering glimpses into the fort’s military planning and secretive design.

Within the fort, the Burj Mandal remains a favourite vantage point for visitors and photographers alike. From here, one can take in panoramic views of the sprawling fortifications, palace ruins, and the surrounding forested landscape. Yet much of the fort remains hidden from casual visitors. 

The citadel tank, obscured by dense vegetation and debris, is among the lesser-explored spaces, silent, neglected and largely forgotten.

Built over nearly four years, Tughlaqabad was designed not merely as a military stronghold but also as a self-contained city. 

However, beyond its architectural ambition, the fort is equally renowned for the legends surrounding its construction. One of the most enduring tales involves the revered Sufi saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, a contemporary of Tughlaq.

According to popular belief, while the fort was under construction, the saint was building a stepwell (baoli) near his dwelling. With labourers unavailable during the day, workers reportedly built the baoli at night. Angered, the Sultan is believed to have banned the supply of oil to halt the lighting of lamps at the site. In response, the saint pronounced a curse upon the fort “Ya rahe ujjar, ya base Gujjar” (May it remain desolate, or may the nomadic Gujjars inhabit it.) 

Another legend recounts that while Tughlaq was returning from a military campaign in Bengal, a pavilion built to welcome him collapsed, killing both the Sultan and his younger son. This sudden tragedy further strengthened belief in the saint’s curse.

After Tughlaq’s death, the fort’s fortunes took a dramatic turn and though it was largely complete, the fort remained sparsely populated. His successor, Mohammad bin Tughlaq, later moved the capital to Daulatabad, hastening the fort’s abandonment. 

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Yet, seven centuries later, the Tughlaqabad Fort has emerged as a favourite destination for a variety of people, including historians, photographers and urban explorers, drawn to its dramatic ruins and layered past. 

However, despite its popularity, the Fort’s poor maintenance raises urgent questions about heritage conservation, as weathering, pollution, and urban encroachment continue to threaten its survival, even though the fort is a national monument, protected by the Archaeological Survey of India, the custodian of all heritage sites across India.

Rising pollution, illegal construction and poor civic sense, combined with maintenance that needs a sharp upgrade, the Tughlaqabad Fort could be headed for the same fate as the Turghlaq dynasty, without urgent intervention by the ASI.