Phagshapa connects pork, radish and culture in Gangtok

Traditional Sikkimese dish unites flavours, heritage and community

Phagshapa, a Sikkimese pork and radish dish, reflects Gangtok’s culinary heritage, blending simple mountain ingredients with community traditions, seasonal flavours, and sustainable farming, offering travellers an authentic taste of local culture.

Phagshapa, one of Sikkim’s culinary gems, is tucked away in the narrow streets of Gangtok, surrounded by fluttering prayer flags and foggy Himalayan scenery.

More than just a plate of food, this filling dish of pork and radish simmered with dried red chillies, is a cultural icon, a tale of migration, tradition and the love of healthful flavours that unites Sikkim’s communities.

For visitors to Gangtok who are looking for more than just places to visit, Phagshapa offers a unique introduction to the Nepali-Bhutanese cuisine that is simmering in this mountainous region.

The dish, also known as ‘pork fat’, has its origins in the culinary customs of the Bhutia and Lepcha people of Sikkim. Tibetan cuisine, which emphasises pork and preserved meats on winter menus, is thought to have influenced it.

The dish’s easy preparation with ingredients found in high-altitude areas, pork belly strips for richness, dried chillies for heat, and radish for balance, led to its rise in popularity in Sikkim. Over time, it became a staple during family feasts and gatherings, particularly in colder months.

Phagshapa differs from other pork curries in India in that it does not have thick gravies or intricate spice blends.

Phagshapa’s balance is its secret. A flavourful broth is made by first boiling the pork belly, which has natural layers of fat and lean meat. Add slices of radish, which absorb the broth and add a cool crunch, and sun-dried red chillies, which release a smoky heat. Additional depth is provided by the addition of garlic, ginger, and occasionally fermented spinach leaves, or gundruk as they are known locally. As a result, the dish is incredibly flavourful and leaner than anticipated.

Family-run eateries tucked away in the alleys provide Phagshapa prepared the old-fashioned way for those looking for authenticity.

Tashi Delek and neighbourhood restaurants: Phagshapa is frequently served at small eateries near MG Marg along with steamed rice and seasonal greens.

In family homestays, Phagshapa is frequently served as part of the daily meal in homestays in the Gangtok area and neighbouring villages like Rumtek or Ranka. Travellers can experience the dish and learn about the generational transmission of recipes by staying with a local family.

During food festivals, Phagshapa is frequently served at communal feasts during Sikkimese celebrations such as Losar or Tibetan New Year.

Phagshapa is about more than just food, it is about fostering relationships with Sikkim residents. Offering a plate of Phagshapa to guests is a sign of warmth and respect, and sharing food is an essential part of Sikkimese hospitality. Additionally, Sikkim’s sustainable food culture is reflected in Phagshapa. On terraced farms, the majority of its ingredients, greens, radish, and chillies, are grown organically.

For foodies, Phagshapa is on par with Nepali thukpa and Tibetan momos as Sikkim’s must-try dishes. Its rusticity, however, provides a more profound sense of discovery than these more well-known dishes.