Lunglei: Journey into the heart of Mizo culture

Home to legends like the warrior’s love story and Serpent Lake, Lunglei is a story in itself.

Over 165 km from Mizoram’s capital, Aizawl, lies Lunglei, a small town with a quiet name and an even quieter story. Nestled deep in the lush hills of south-central Mizoram, Lunglei is often called the cultural heart of the state, a place where the soul of Mizo heritage lingers, not loudly, but with quiet persistence.

When travellers head to Northeast India, they often explore Assam, the region’s gateway to the region, Arunachal Pradesh, where the country sees its first sunrise or the tiny Himalayan state of Sikkim. Yet, tucked away in a remote corner lies Mizoram, a state that remains largely overlooked, which is perhaps best-known for its hilltop capital, Aizawl.

But nestled in the lush green hills of south-central Mizoram lies Lunglei, often regarded as the cultural heart of the state. Once spelled “Lungleh,” this city quietly holds the soul of Mizo heritage.

Meaning a “rock bridge,” the town takes its name from a large rock once discovered near Nghasih, a tributary of the Tlawng River. Local legend says the formation resembled a natural bridge, and over time, a settlement began to grow around it.

Considered the second largest city in Mizoram, Lunglei is surrounded by forests, waterfalls, caves and rivers, offering a mild climate with cool summers and gentle winters. Nestled in this natural abundance, homes painted in bright colours and adorned with intricate carvings reflect a rich cultural identity that remains largely unfamiliar to the rest of the country.

The ‘Stone Bridge’ not only gave Lunglei its name, but it also shaped the city’s identity and serves as reminder of a time when Lunglei was the educational centre of Mizoram, attracting people from across the region after pioneer missionaries from England established their headquarters there in 1894.

To delve deeper into the roots of Mizo identity beyond its origin stories, a small district museum offers a vivid glimpse into the community’s traditional way of life.

Its carefully curated collection includes stone sculptures, metal carvings, blue pottery, leatherwork, and ivory-brass artefacts, each piece reflecting a distinct aspect of Mizo craftsmanship. Through displays of traditional clothing, weaponry, jewellery, and everyday utensils, the museum brings to life the customs, values, and lived experiences that have shaped Mizo culture across generations.

While exploring the museum, visitors encounter a striking collection of paintings and sculptures that not only celebrate Mizoram’s natural beauty but also offer subtle political commentary. These works blur the line between art and activism, suggesting that in this region, creative expression often doubles as a reflection and critique of the times.

To experience another aspect of Mizo culture, head to the Zobawk Market that is notable for its traditional Mizo cuisine, featuring a range of dishes like Bai, a stew made with seasonal vegetables; Sa Rep, smoked meat and Bekang, a dish of fermented soybeans.

While Zobawk Market is known for Mizo cuisine, Bazar Veng stands out for its locally made handicrafts, traditional attire, and regional spices. It is a great place to pick up distinctive souvenirs and get a glimpse of the local way of life. With its lively stalls and welcoming vendors, the market offers a warm and engaging shopping experience.

Tucked away near the Bangladesh border lies a unique memorial stone, Thangliana Lung. While most monuments honour local heroes, this one is dedicated to a British officer, Captain T H Lewin, who first visited Mizoram in 1865.

Affectionately known by the Mizos as Thangliana, or ‘greatly famous’, Lewin is remembered not as a colonial figure, but as a friend. He lived among the Mizos for nine years, wrote the first book in the Lusei language, and earned the title of their ‘first white friend’. The stone stands as a quiet tribute to an unlikely bond.

At the heart of Lunglei stands Saikuti Hall, the largest cultural venue in Mizoram and a vibrant hub of tradition and performance. Named after the elegant and celebrated songwriter & poetess Saikuti Sailo, the hall is more than just a building, it is a living tribute to Mizo heritage.

Throughout the year, it hosts a wide array of cultural events, from spirited dance and music performances to exhibitions and seminars. The name Saikuti, meaning “cultural sub-centre” in the local language, reflects its role as a guardian of Mizo identity, where the past is celebrated and tradition finds new life.

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Nature’s queen Lunglei 

Sprawling across 35 sq km of green serenity in Lunglei lies the Khawnglung Wildlife Sanctuary, a quiet, cliff-guarded, and rich in all the usual suspects, namely flora, fauna and the occasional tiger.

Officially declared a sanctuary in 2000, besides tigers, it is also home to leopards, Himalayan black bears, binturongs, sambar deer, barking deer, wild boars, and a rather dignified assembly of birds Hume’s pheasant, Khaleej pheasant and the White-cheeked partridge, to name a few.

But unlike the Jim Corbett-style sanctuaries with their colonial-hunter backstories, or the textbook reserves where animals pose politely for eco-tourism brochures, Khawnglung carries something else, a legend.

It is the tale of Chalkunga, a young warrior who risked everything to rescue his beloved Thanghniangi, taken during a village raid. He did bring her back. But joy, like monsoon rivers, does not linger. While crossing the Tiau River, she was swept away by the current gone before she could be home. The forest still remembers them. Not just as characters in Mizo folklore, but as a love story older and sadder than any safari trail can offer.

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Roughly 30 km from Lunglei, in the Mara Autonomous District Council, lies Palak Dil, Mizoram’s largest lake. Recognised as part of the Indo-Burma biodiversity hotspot by Conservation International, it is a haven for nature lovers, rich in flora, fauna, and a touch of folklore.

One local legend tells of a woman who was given a serpent’s head to cook. When she saw its eyes still moving, she panicked and threw the pot away. Water gushed out, drowning the village and forming the lake. As myths go it is dramatic and oddly memorable.

Today, Palak Dil is home to various prawns, crabs, turtles, and over 70 bird species, including the Nepal fulvetta, white-bellied yuhina, little spiderhunter, yellow wagtail, black-capped kingfisher, hooded pitta, spot-breasted scimitar babbler and the white-rumped mania. A scenic lake with biodiversity and stories that linger.

Lunglei is not the headline act of tourism in northeastern India and perhaps that is why it stays with visitors. It does not perform, it simply endures, quietly rooted in its hills and stories. Here, the culture lives not just in museums or stages, but in the bustle of Zobawk Market, the music of Saikuti Hall and a memorial stone for an unlikely friend.

From the love story that haunts Khawnglung’s forests to the serpent myth behind Palak Dil, Lunglei is shaped as much by legend as by landscape. It offers no spectacle, just silence, memory and beauty that lingers.