Africa next global fashion leader, says UNESCO report

UNESCO says Africa can be the new global fashion leader

Africa is the next global leader in fashion industry, says a report by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO). The report, The Fashion Sector in Africa: Trends, Challenges and Opportunities for Growth, shows that the continent holds all the cards to become one of the next world fashion leaders. Africa is a major producer of raw materials, 37 out of 54 countries produce cotton, an exporter of textiles to the value of USD 15.5 billion a year, and an importer of textiles, clothing and footwear to the value of USD 23.1 billion a year.

The report says that there is a growing consumer trend on the continent for fashion Made-in-Africa, particularly among young people, the under-25s account for 50 pc of the continent’s total population and among the burgeoning middle class, which already make up more than 35 pc of the population, opening up new consumer markets. Africa is also experiencing very rapid growth in the digital sector, which is facilitating intra-African trade and the emergence of young talent.

As evidenced by the 32 Fashion Weeks held each year, Africa is also brimming with talent in the fields of haute couture, crafts and clothing. A 42 pc increase in demand for African haute couture is expected over the next 10 years, says UNESCO.

But for Africa to get there, UNESCO says that the governments need to take some measures to strengthen the institutional framework around the industry. UNESCO highlights four challenges which governments and decision-makers must tackle if they want to realise the potential of Africa’s fashion sector.

First, it says that legal protections for designers and professionals need to be strengthened, in terms of intellectual property rights, remuneration levels, working conditions and the ability to organise into professional unions and social rights. With this aim, UNESCO is already helping 23 African countries to improve the status of artists through legislation and regulations.

UNESCO adds that in Africa investment must be made in small and medium-sized enterprises, which today account for 90 pc of businesses in the fashion sector in Africa. Covering the entire continent, they are the gatekeepers of the diversity of cultural practices and expression. Generators of local employment, they are also a powerful lever for giving young people who want to enter the sector a chance. 

Another challenge for Africa, according to UNESCO, is that environmental standards need to be set. While the fashion industry remains one of the most polluting industries, Africa can make greater use of local materials, innovate around sustainable textiles, and raise awareness of sustainable consumption patterns. 

Africa’s fashion industry is growing rapidly, says UNESCO

Production of organic cotton fibre in Africa has already risen by 90 pc between 2019 and 2020, and now accounts for 7.3 pc of global production. The second-hand clothing market is one of the most dynamic in the world, representing a third of global imports – but still suffers from a lack of recycling channels, with 40 pc of these garments ending up in landfill sites, or even in oceans and rivers.

Both the transmission of savoir-faire, and formal training need to be improved. Africa is rich in traditional skills and unique textile techniques, some of which are already protected by UNESCO. The report encourages countries to set up mentoring schemes to ensure that these practices are passed on from generation to generation and can continue to inspire young designers. UNESCO says it is calling for an increase in the number of qualifications available in key related professions, quality control and commercial law.

The continent also needs to put in place proper infrastructure for marketing and in training in new technologies, such as 3D printing and e-commerce.

“Across the continent, people are increasingly looking for products ‘Made in Africa’ which they see as a symbol of pride and a way to affirm their identity. But in order to meet this growing demand, the entire production chain needs to be strengthened. This UNESCO report is useful because it maps out the path to achieve this, and it will increase the awareness of public decision-makers,” says Omoyemi Akerele, Director of Lagos Fashion Week. 

UNESCO supports creative industries in Africa

UNESCO says its commitment to the development of a dynamic creative economy in Africa is in line with the principles set out in the UNESCO Convention on the Protection and Promotion of the Diversity of Cultural Expressions. Recently, UNESCO has produced a series of reports on the strategic importance of cultural and creative industries in Africa, including, a report on African cinema published in 2021.

Models holding hands at Lagos Fashion Week in Nigeria

“Fashion is really taking off in Africa, and this report shows that it can be developed even further. In order to achieve this, designers, professionals and the entire production and distribution infrastructure need more support from public decision-makers. The potential is enormous, not only for the economy, but also for young people’s inclusion, women’s empowerment and for African culture to resonate globally,” says Audrey Azoulay, Director-General of UNESCO, at the launch of the report at Lagos Fashion Week.