Traditional jewellery: A dazzling tapestry of Indian cultures

Timeless ornaments showcasing artistry and culture

From regal intricacies to spiritual symbolism, traditional Indian jewellery reflects the vibrant diversity of each region, its history and artistry of its people.

India, a land of cultural richness and timeless heritage, boasts an equally vibrant tradition of jewellery-making.

Every state and region contributes its own style and craftsmanship to the country’s treasure trove of ornaments. As modern designs evolve, these age-old traditional designs continue to inspire, preserve and shine in the contemporary world.

Here is a journey through some iconic jewellery styles from various Indian states.

Rajasthan

Rajasthan, also called the land of kings, is famed for its opulent and intricate jewellery. Kundan work, one of the oldest forms of jewellery in India, involves setting carefully cut gemstones in a base of pure gold.

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Equally exquisite is the meenakari, the art of enamelling with vivid colours, often seen adorning the reverse side of kundan pieces. These styles, mostly worn by royalty in centuries past, remain popular today for weddings and special occasions in the state.

Southern India

Temple jewellery, originating from southern Indian states, notably Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, draws inspiration from temple architecture and deities. Traditionally crafted in gold and worn by classical dancers, especially Bharatanatyam and Kuchipudi performers, this jewellery features motifs of gods, goddesses, and sacred symbols.

Its bold, ornate aesthetic carries spiritual significance as well as artistic beauty.

Kerala

In Kerala, gold is more than a precious metal, it is a way of life. The iconic kasu mala, or coin necklace, is a staple in every traditional bridal ensemble. Made of small gold coins strung closely together, this piece symbolises wealth and prosperity.

Other cherished pieces from the region include palakka mala and mulla mottu mala, reflecting the lush greenery and serene elegance of Kerala.

Maharashtra

Maharashtrian jewellery is rich with cultural symbolism. The Kolhapuri saaj, a traditional necklace from Kolhapur, is an elaborate piece comprising 21 pendants, each with a spiritual or natural motif, such as the tulsi, holy basil leaf or representations of deities.

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The saaj is not just an ornament but a family heirloom passed down through generations.

West Bengal

West Bengal’s jewellery traditions blend elegance with strong cultural roots. The most iconic symbols are shakha, white conch shell bangles and pola, red coral bangles, worn by married Bengali women as markers of marital status.

These bangles, often worn with gold ornaments like the tikli and chur, carry deep emotional and cultural significance, especially during festivals and weddings.

Jammu & Kashmir

In the breath-taking valleys of Jammu and Kashmir, traditional jewellery is deeply blended with customs and spiritual beliefs. The dejhoor, a long gold ornament worn by married Kashmiri Pandit women, is suspended from the ears and attached to a chain called ath, symbolising marital status and divine connection.

Also Read: Keran Valley: A journey to Kashmir’s borderland beauty

Another beautiful adornment is the taranga, a headpiece traditionally worn by brides, often paired with intricate earrings and necklaces that reflect Persian and Central Asian influences.

Assam

From the North East, Assam brings jewellery that is both elegant and rooted in nature. Assamese jewellery, often crafted in gold-plated silver, is renowned for its lightweight and bold designs.

Pieces such as the junbiri, crescent moon-shaped pendant, loka paro, twin bird motif earrings, and gamkharu, broad bangles are traditionally worn during Bihu and weddings.

The motifs often take inspiration from flora and fauna, reflecting the region’s lush landscapes and rich heritage.