Connaught Place: Delhi’s timeless circle blending past and present

White colonnades, bustling arcades and heritage thrive together here

Connaught Place, New Delhi’s iconic commercial hub, seamlessly blends colonial architecture with modern vibrancy. Historic businesses adapt to survive, preserving heritage while embracing change, making CP a living symbol of Delhi’s evolution.

Connaught Place is a circle of white colonnades and busy arcades that has served as the capital’s commercial and cultural hub for almost a century, and is located in the centre of New Delhi. Named after the Duke of Connaught and built more than 90 years ago, this architectural wonder is still a living example of Delhi’s complex past, where remnants of the colonial past coexist peacefully with the city’s contemporary energy.

The late 1920s saw the beginning of Connaught Place, or CP as it is lovingly referred to. Inspired by Bath, England’s Royal Crescent, British architect Robert Tor Russell created CP with the intention of creating a palatial commercial centre for the new imperial capital. What started out as a ridge with kikar trees and untamed animals was turned into a thriving urban centre by the time construction was finished in 1933.

The design itself is an analysis of urban planning and colonial ambition. A nearly full ring of stately, whitewashed buildings is formed by radial roads connecting two concentric circles, the inner and outer circles. With their consistent Georgian design, these colonnaded facades were designed to have residential spaces above and upscale stores and eateries on the ground floor. Delhi’s elite soon found themselves drawn to the area, and CP’s standing as the city’s commercial and cultural centre only strengthened over the years.

A few of CP’s original establishments have not only survived but flourished amid the whirlwind of modernisation, keeping the essence of old Delhi alive within their illustrious walls.

Dhoomimal Art Gallery (Est. 1936): A sanctuary for art

The Dhoomimal Art Gallery, tucked away in Block A, is a window into the history of evolution of Indian art over the past century, rather than merely a gallery. It was founded by Ram Chander Jain, who first operated a stationery and printing business. Jain offered the first floor to artists as a meeting place in 1936 after selling canvases and art supplies in 1935.

“This location was transformed into an art gallery in 1957 and now features an amazing collection of works by well-known artists like MF Husain and FN Souza,” Anushka Singh, gallery’s manager, tells Media India Group.

“Earlier, famous artists and musicians used to come here and gather for artistic evenings. But now with urbanisation people only visit this place for aesthetics and to click pictures,” Singh adds.

Photographs of famous artists and dignitaries adorn the gallery’s walls, and its Victorian interiors, which include a fireplace from the British era, have an air of antiquity that has not faded with the passing of time.

Rikhi Ram Musical Instrument Mfg Co (Est. 1920): The Sound of Tradition

Rikhi Ram Musical Instrument Company has a legacy and a story of passion. Rikhi Ram, a skilled musician and craftsman, founded the company in Lahore in 1920. Following the Partition in 1947, it moved to Delhi. When the famous British rock band, The Beatles came to town in 1966, the store’s reputation took off, and George Harrison bought a sitar that had been specially made for him.

“When The Beatles’ came to visit us in 1966, the fab four brought back a tabla, a tanpura, a sarod, and a sitar that my father had specially made for George Harrison and our shop gained more attention,” Ajay Sharma, third-generation owner, tells Media India Group.

“We have not changed the interior and architecture of the store because we wanted to keep the originality and essence of nostalgia for the upcoming generations,” Sharma says.

Legendary musicians and inquisitive tourists alike continue to frequent the store, which is filled with the sound of craftspeople making traditional Indian instruments.

Imperial Leather Works (Est. 1942): Craftsmanship Unchanged

Since 1942, Imperial Leather Works, tucked away in G-Block, has been associated with high-quality leather goods. Initially producing army uniforms and belts for the defence industry, the shop has a devoted following thanks to its dedication to traditional methods.

“At first, it used to make army uniforms and belts for defence departments. With minimal alterations since its establishment, the store’s interior is a time capsule that provides a unique window into the artistry of a bygone era,” says the third-generation owner, who preferred to stay anonymous.

“International visitors who earlier were our regular customers still come here to get their leather bags made,” he adds.

The persistence of CP’s original business community is demonstrated by the presence of other stalwarts like Indian Arts Palace and Salwan Furnishing, which also carry on their traditions.

Connaught Place retains its fundamental character in spite of the unrelenting passage of time and waves of redevelopment. The grand radial roads, the colonnaded verandas, and the soft murmur of business have not changed. CP’s core has resisted significant change, maintaining the architectural harmony and old-world charm that made it unique, despite the rise of contemporary brands and skyscrapers around its periphery.

It is evident that CP has a strong sense of community. Regulars are called by name by store owners, and the locals share stories about the times when the neighbourhood was less congested, the air was cleaner, and the evenings were more peaceful. Everyone takes pride in belonging to something timeless, a living tradition that has withstood political upheavals, wars, and urban renewal waves. This tenacity is perhaps best demonstrated during public gatherings and festivals, when the circles come to life with lights, music and laughter, reinforcing CP’s function as the city’s hub for social interaction.

The difficulties of the present, however, are never far away. Many older businesses have been forced to close shop or move due to rising rents, competition from malls and internet retailers, and ongoing pressure to modernise. Those who have survived have done so by finding a careful balance between respecting the past and looking to the future. Some have launched digital platforms, remodelled interiors, or added new product lines, all while preserving the qualities that initially won people over.

“So many customers are now shopping online or at big malls, so we have had to rethink how we do business. We started selling some of our products online. It is a constant balancing act, adapting to the times while staying true to our roots,” says Sharma of the music store.

Connaught Place is an experience for tourists rather than just a place to shop. The shops encourage exploration and discovery, the colonnades offer protection from the Delhi sun and the cafes offer a place to relax and converse.  It is a living record of Delhi’s development rather than merely a marketplace. Its verandas hold tales of resiliency and creativity, and its streets resound with both melody and mayhem.