Chitkul: Last inhabited village of Himachal Pradesh

Village’s life revolves around seasonal migration and survival

Chitkul, a remote Himalayan village in Himachal Pradesh, near the Indo-Tibetan border, offers a rare look at life shaped by isolation, extreme winters and centuries-old mountain traditions.

Resting at an altitude of about 3,450 metres in Himachal Pradesh’s Kinnaur district, Chitkul is often described as India’s last inhabited village on the old Indo-Tibetan trade route. Located around 28 km from Sangla and close to the Indo-Tibetan border, the village sits on the banks of the Baspa River, surrounded by snow-clad peaks and dense forests. While it has recently found a place on the travel map, daily life in Chitkul remains defined by isolation, harsh weather and centuries-old traditions.

For nearly half the year, Chitkul is cut off from the rest of the state and the country. Heavy snowfall during winter months makes roads impassable, forcing most residents to migrate temporarily to lower-altitude towns such as Reckong Peo or Shimla. Only a handful of families, along with security personnel, stay back to guard homes and livestock. Electricity supply is erratic, mobile connectivity is limited and access to healthcare and education becomes extremely difficult.

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Chitkul’s geography has shaped not just its economy but also its culture and architecture. The village is dominated by traditional wooden houses built in the Kath-Kuni style, a technique that uses interlocking wood and stone to withstand earthquakes and heavy snow. Narrow lanes, prayer flags fluttering in the wind and centuries-old temples give the village a distinct character.

The Mathi Temple, which not only serves as a spiritual centrepiece but also as a cultural and architectural landmark in Chitkul. Architecturally, it is a striking example of Kathkuni-style construction, which combines stone and wood without mortar ideal for withstanding the region’s harsh climate.

Said to be over 500 years old, the temple is dedicated to Goddess Mathi, the local goddess revered in the Kinnaur valley. Featuring traditional and stunning woodwork from ancient times, the temple showcases intricate carvings that depict deities, animals, and nature-inspired motifs.

Chitkul’s proximity to the border with Tibet in China has also influenced its cultural practices. Elements of Tibetan architecture, dress and customs blend seamlessly with local Kinnauri traditions. Historically, the village lay along a trade route connecting India with Tibet and elders still recall stories passed down about barter trade involving salt, wool and grains.

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Agriculture remains the backbone of Chitkul’s economy, though the short growing season limits what can be cultivated. Barley, buckwheat, potatoes and peas are commonly grown, while apple orchards have become an important source of income over the past few decades. Kinnaur apples, known for their quality, are exported to markets across India.

However, farming at this altitude comes with challenges. Climate change has begun to alter snowfall patterns and water availability, directly affecting crops.

Livestock such as sheep, goats and yaks supplement household incomes and provide wool, meat and dairy products. During summer, grazing grounds around the village come alive, while winters force families to relocate with their animals.

In recent years, Chitkul has attracted increasing numbers of tourists, particularly backpackers and road-trip travellers seeking offbeat destinations. Its reputation as a quiet, untouched village has spread through social media, drawing visitors during the short summer window when roads are open.

Small homestays, guesthouses and cafés have emerged, providing locals with additional income. Dishes such as chana madra, made with local grains, siddu, dham and fresh apple products are popular among visitors. Yet, tourism here remains modest compared to more commercial hill stations.

The administration has introduced basic guidelines to regulate tourism, but enforcement remains uneven due to limited resources and staff in the remote region.

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Access to basic services remains one of Chitkul’s biggest challenges. The village has a primary school, but for higher education, children have to travel to Sangla or further. During winter, schooling is disrupted entirely, forcing families to plan academic calendars around weather conditions.

Despite its challenges, Chitkul continues to hold on to a way of life shaped by community cooperation. Seasonal migration, shared labour and collective decision-making remain integral to village life. Festivals, agricultural cycles and religious practices provide continuity in an otherwise uncertain environment.

At the same time, external pressures are mounting. Climate change, improved road connectivity and rising tourist interest are slowly transforming the village. While these changes bring economic opportunities, they also threaten to disrupt the delicate balance that has sustained Chitkul for generations.

For now, Chitkul stands as a prompt of life lived on the margins of geography and modern infrastructure. Far from the bustle of mainstream hill tourism, the village offers insight into how communities adapt to extreme conditions while preserving their cultural identity.