Shettihalli’s ‘Floating Church’: A haunting relic that rises & falls with the river

Paradise for history buffs, photographers & adventure seekers

Amidst the changing tides of the Hemavathi River in Hassan, the Shettihalli Rosary Church, a haunting 19th-century Gothic ruin, mesmerizes visitors as it vanishes and reappears with the seasons, earning its name the ‘Floating Church.

Located in Shettihalli village, about 22 km from Hassan in Karnataka, the Shettihalli Rosary Church stands as a haunting yet captivating relic of the past.

Built by French missionaries in the 1860s, this Gothic masterpiece, known as the ‘Floating Church, this architectural marvel has become an offbeat tourist attraction, drawing history buffs, photographers and curious travellers from across the country.

A glimpse of history

The Shettihalli Rosary Church was built in a period when French missionaries were actively establishing religious institutions in India. The church was constructed to serve the small Christian community in the region. The structure reflected classic Gothic architecture, featuring pointed arches, intricate detailing, and towering spires, reminiscent of European churches of that era.

During the colonial era, Hassan was among the districts where the British established coffee plantations, many of which continue to thrive today. Shettihalli was first documented in Jesuit records by missionary priest Father Manuel De Almeyda in 1727 CE. It is believed that an older church once stood in Shettihalli but was likely destroyed.

The present-day Holy Rosary Church, known as ‘Shettihalli,’ was built to serve the wealthy British estate owners in the region. The church was surrounded by several villages at the time. The credit for designing this architectural marvel is often given to Father Abbe J A Duboi, a French missionary and architect, who envisioned it as early as 1810.

Duboi arrived in India as part of a Roman Catholic missionary organisation and initially worked with the Pondicherry mission. In 1799 CE, he was invited to Srirangapatna, where he chose to immerse himself in the local culture, adopting their attire, customs, and way of life.

He is particularly known for his efforts in reconverting Christians who had been forced to embrace Islam under Tippu Sultan’s rule. The church was built to cater to both British settlers and the local Christian population. Its architecture followed the Gothic style, which was prevalent in Europe at the time, symbolising the magnificence and spiritual grandeur of Christian religious structures.

The materials used in its construction included bricks, mortar, Egyptian gypsum, jaggery, eggshells, and glass imported from Belgium. Perhaps this unique combination contributed to the church’s extraordinary resilience over the centuries.

The church played a crucial role in serving the Christian community across Hassan and its surrounding villages, including Changravalli, Shettihalli, Dhoddakoppalu, Gadekopplu, and Madanakopplu. Its significance extended beyond religious purposes, as it became a centre for humanitarian service, offering aid and support to the underprivileged, regardless of their religious background.

For nearly a century, the church stood as a place of worship and community gathering. However, its fate took a drastic turn when the Indian government planned the construction of the Hemavathi Dam in the 1960s to aid irrigation and water conservation. The resulting backwaters gradually engulfed the surrounding villages, forcing the residents, including the Christian community, to abandon their homes and relocate.

It is said that there were about 2,000 families living around Shettihalli in the past. However, after the construction of the reservoir, the entire village started to be submerged.  The church, too, was left behind, becoming an eerie yet fascinating ruin submerged by the river’s rise and fall.

Why is it called the ‘Floating Church’?

The Shettihalli Rosary Church earned its nickname as the ‘Floating Church’ due to its unique interaction with the waters of the Hemavathi River. During the monsoon season, when the river swells, the church is partially or even fully submerged, with only the highest portions of the structure visible above the water. As the water recedes in summer, the skeleton of the church emerges once again, standing in stark contrast to the lush greenery around it. This periodic submersion and reappearance have lent the site an almost mythical aura, adding to its allure.

Despite being abandoned for decades, the church’s structure has remarkably withstood the test of time. The thick brick and mortar walls, though weathered, continue to stand firm, offering visitors a glimpse into the craftsmanship of the 19th century. Over time, nature has taken over, with vines creeping through the broken walls and birds nesting in its nooks, giving the ruins an ethereal charm.

The Shettihalli Rosary Church has gradually transformed into a hidden gem for offbeat travellers. Tourists visiting the site are captivated by the haunting beauty of the ruins, especially during sunrise and sunset when the interplay of light and shadow enhances its mystique. The monsoon season, in particular, offers a breathtaking sight as the church appears to float on the water, making it a popular subject for photographers.

Adventure seekers and history enthusiasts often take boat rides to get a closer look at the church when it is submerged. Many also explore the site on foot during the drier months when the water recedes, allowing visitors to walk around and even inside the skeletal remains of the church.

Conservation and the Future

Despite its popularity, the Shettihalli Rosary Church remains largely unprotected and at the mercy of the elements. The lack of official conservation efforts has led to gradual deterioration, with portions of the structure crumbling over time. Heritage conservationists and local tourism promoters have called for steps to preserve this architectural wonder, citing its historical and cultural significance.

For those seeking an offbeat travel experience, the Shettihalli Rosary Church offers an unforgettable journey through history, mystery, and nature’s relentless reclaiming of the past.