Dhanushkodi: India’s lost town frozen in time

Uncovering Dhanushkodi’s spiritual legacy

At the southern tip of India lies Dhanushkodi, a town frozen in time. Scarred by a cyclone in 1964, it stands in ruins but still draws visitors with its natural beauty and rich spiritual heritage, offering a unique and enduring charm.

On the night of December 22, 1964, a small yet thriving port town, popular among tourists and pilgrims, was going about its daily life when a massive spinning cyclonic storm swept in from the ocean suddenly struck, leaving widespread destruction in its wake.

The devastation was so severe that everything, from sacred places of worship like temples and churches to basic infrastructure like roads, was left in ruins. This fated town was Dhanushkodi, which faced such massive destruction that it is now a ghost town.

Located 20 km from Rameswaram, the 1964 Dhanushkodi cyclone is regarded as one of the worst natural disasters, which shook Tamil Nadu.

These tsunami-like waves were so powerful that, on that fateful day, the Pamban-Dhanushkodi passenger train, carrying 115 passengers and 5 railway employees, was swept away. This destruction symbolised the transformation of an overnight thriving settlement into an abandoned town, which now has only 500 residents.

Dhanushkodi spiritual connection

But beyond this tragic disaster, there lies a spiritual past of this ghost town! This southern town holds a special connection to the Hindu epic Ramayan. Its name, which in Hindi translates into the tip of the bow, itself refers to the epic. But there is more to connect Dhanushkodi to Lord Rama.

Near the southern tip of Pamban Island, often regarded as the point where India ends, lies the stunning Ram Setu, a 48 km stretch of natural limestone shoals. This formation is believed to be the bridge built by Lord Ram and his vanara army to cross over to Ravana’s Lanka and rescue Goddess Sita. Also known as Adam’s Bridge, Ram Setu holds deep significance, particularly among Hindus.

Another remarkable symbol of the connection of Dhanushkodi to Lord Ram is a floating rock! Currently preserved in a small temple within this ghost town, local lore suggests that this rock was once used in the construction of Ram Setu.

Though almost all of Dhanushkodi was destroyed by the cyclone, Kothandaramaswamy Temple in the town is believed to have withstood nature’s wrath during the 1964 disaster, remaining steadfast against its forces.

Located 12 km from Rameswaram, this temple is dedicated to Lord Rama and is surrounded by the vast, majestic waters of the Gulf of Mannar and the Bay of Bengal.

Carved with captivating paintings and walls that echo its history by depicting scenes from the Ramayan, this temple is steeped in an interesting legend.

According to lore, Ravana’s younger brother Vibhishana, who had earlier advised him to release Sita, surrendered to Lord Rama during the war and later helped him fight. Inside the temple, images of Vibhishana and Lord Hanuman can be seen.

Speaking of spirituality in addition to the temples, there is also a ruined church that serves as a reminder of the disaster. Believe it or not, this church was made of coral stone! While the original altar remains, the walls and structure are gone. The old bricks used in the church’s construction symbolise the immense destruction wrought by the cyclone.

Even today, some marooned structures, including a school and an office by the railway, lie scattered, reflecting a time when a fully functioning town existed before the disaster.

Dhanushkodi- Nature’s paradise

Beyond spirituality, Dhanushkodi is also celebrated for its serene beauty with picturesque beaches and vast, clear blue oceans stretching to the horizon.

Stretching up to 15 km in length, Dhanushkodi Beach is renowned for its pristine white sand and clear blue waters. Frequently experiencing high tides, the region is also a haven for migratory birds, including gulls and flamingos. With its serene beauty, this beach is an ideal destination for families and solo travellers looking to immerse themselves in nature’s embrace.

But if you want to experience the ocean on three sides in its full grandeur, Arichal Munai is the place to visit. Located 30 km from the neighbouring island country of Sri Lanka, this point is shaped like a bow, as if ready to release an arrow! It is surrounded by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean and the deep blue Bay of Bengal, whose confluence offers a unique view of these vast water bodies coming together.

The sunrise in Dhanushkodi is said to be nothing short of spectacular, with hues of pink and orange reflecting on the waters, creating a breathtaking sight. This sight truly makes it a paradise for nature lovers.

Pamban bridge- Dhanushkodi’s present

The Pamban Bridge stands as the only structure that in Dhanushkodi which also existed before the 1964 disaster. Opened as India’s first sea bridge and the longest bridge in the country, it was severely damaged by the cyclone in 1964. But the bridge was renovated and restored in a mere 45 days.

A new Pamban Bridge, touted as India’s first vertical lift railway sea bridge, spanning 2.2 km, is set to be launched. Aimed at easing the annual influx of visitors to Rameswaram and Dhanushkodi, a trial run with empty train rakes was also conducted to reach the old Rameswaram station.

Despite the town being lost to time, as reflected in its ruined structures, offering a glimpse of destruction, Dhanushkodi remains filled with stories of faith, resilience, and natural wonder.