India’s Culinary Gems Miss the Michlein Spotlight

The Michelin Guide, that rates restaurants around the world, has long served as a global benchmark for judging culinary excellence. However, despite rating over 30,000 establishments in over 30 nations, Michelin is yet to rate any restaurant in India. Despite the rising popularity of Indian cuisine and the inclusion of Indian restaurants abroad, it is a mystery why India fails to figure in Michelin Guide.

From the rich coconut curries of Kerala in the south to the aromatic dishes of the seven sisters in the northeast, and from the spicy-sugary delicacies of Gujarat to the traditional fare of Kashmir, Indian culinary heritage has evolved over the millennia into a remarkable tapestry of taste and flavour.

Indian cuisine is as diverse and vibrant as the country’s history, traditions, languages, and cultures, with each region offering its own unique flavours and techniques.

Yet, despite this incredible diversity and melange of spices and traditions, Indian restaurants in India are absent from the global restaurant rating system, Michelin Guide.

The Michelin Guide is a prestigious global rating system that awards Michelin stars to restaurants based on evaluations by anonymous expert inspectors. The guide was created by André Michelin and Édouard Michelin, founders of French tyre manufacturer, Michelin, in 1920.

Michelin stars are awarded on the basis of various criteria, including the quality of ingredients, mastery of culinary techniques and flavours amongst
others.

Even though numerous Indian chefs across the country are demonstrating commendable skills experimenting with local indigenous ingredients, blending traditional and international influences, using high-quality ingredients and innovative culinary techniques, all criterions important for a Michelin starred restaurant, Indian restaurants in India remain notably absent from the Michelin Guide.

Many esteemed chefs and critics believe that it’s about time the guide acknowledged the culinary innovations and traditions flourishing in the Indian Subcontinent.

“I think this is a time for Indian restaurants to be seen, to be recognised for their food. Our legacy is unbeatable if you have to compete with any other cuisine or any other country. There are amazing chefs who are doing amazingly well so I feel it’s about time Michelin recognises us and comes to India,” Dhruv Oberoi, Head Chef at Olive Bar and Kitchen, an upscale eatery in New Delhi, tells India & You.

The challenge of understanding India’s complex culinary scene

Despite the fact that 154 Indian restaurants in different parts of the world led by acclaimed Indian chefs have been recognised by Michelin, Indian restaurants in India remain missing from the guide.

Industry experts and renowned chefs believe that the complexity and sheer volume of such a populous and diverse country, with a vast array of regional specialties and the intricate culinary traditions is preventing Michelin from entering the Indian market.

“India has a diverse food scene and understanding the layers of Indian cuisine takes time. Our food is grounded in locality and tradition. It is a delicate balance between experimenting and staying true to flavour, something that we, as chefs, are conscious of. Michelin might not yet fully grasp the complexity and emotion we pour into these dishes,” Chef Tarun Sibal, who owns several restaurants and bars in Delhi, Goa and Bengaluru, tells India & You.

Sibal is not the only chef to believe that the reason for the absence of Michelin stars in India may be the country’s rich regional diversity and cultural differences in dining. India emphasises on authentic culinary experiences and traditional practices, often prioritising local flavours and home-style cooking over the fine dining concepts prevalent in other countries.

“India’s food culture is vast and incredibly regional. Michelin might find it difficult to establish a consistent evaluation system when there are so many culinary traditions to account for. There are also many local flavours and cooking methods that may not align with what Michelin typically rewards, such as technical innovation or luxury dining,” Chef Vicky Ratani, celebrity chef, cook book author and consultant, tells India and You.

“Michelin inspectors often prioritise fine dining experiences, modern techniques, and high-end service, which may not be the focus of many traditional Indian restaurants. Authentic Indian cuisine, in many cases, is celebrated for its flavour and regional authenticity, which might not fit neatly into Michelin’s existing rubric of dining experiences,” he adds.

Michelin rating could transform Indian culinary scene

While Indian cuisine boasts a vast array of regional and authentic flavours, international recognition often remains limited to a few well-known dishes, like butter chicken. Michelin’s arrival in India could finally bring long-overdue recognition to the country’s rich culinary scene.

“Many chefs in India not just in metropolitan cities but also in small towns have immense potential and are doing amazing trying to innovate, creating a balance between experimenting and staying true to flavour. There is a bar back in Shillong where they create cocktails with the indigenous ingredients in a very fresh modern avatar, so people are very much working with indigenous ingredients and re-imagining classic dishes, yet keeping the heart of Indian food alive,” says Oberoi.

“Michelin can really put that aspect of Indian cuisine on the culinary map; you know bridge the gap and that will be great for us. India’s whole image would change. I think we will benefit a lot,” he adds.

The Michelin Guide has the potential to showcase this diversity, introducing global audiences to the rich tapestry flavours and traditions that define Indian cooking. By highlighting lesser-known regional specialties, Michelin could elevate Indian cuisine on the world stage, bursting the myths and fostering appreciation for its complexity and depth.

“Michelin stars could really shake things up! It would push chefs to refine how they present Indian cuisine to the world, but more importantly, it would also validate the work that is already being done,” adds Sibal.

The recognition would also likely attract foreign tourists who associate the guide with a guarantee of quality and refinement. This would help cement India’s reputation as a culinary destination in the international market.

“It might also increase the visibility of Indian cuisine globally, positioning it alongside other culinary giants. It would boost the tourism industry, drive more culinary experiences aimed at tourists, and further cement India’s reputation as a culinary destination,” says Ratani.

Despite the region’s rich culinary heritage and food-driven culture, many Indians remain unaware of the Michelin rating system. By introducing this prestigious guide, Michelin could tap into a vast and diverse food landscape, elevating dining experiences and encouraging culinary tourism. This expansion would not only enhance Michelin’s brand visibility but also foster a deeper appreciation for regional cuisines, benefiting both the company and local gastronomes.

“Michelin will also get recognition in such a huge and diverse market; a lot of Indians still don’t know that such a guide exists. So that would also benefit the Michelin,” adds Oberoi.